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Psamead Ghostdance 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Alex A on Sep 8, 2010

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Getting up there on a lead attempt... rare Februar...


This was a old aid line, called Bivouac Ledge 5.7 A1, starts about 10ft left of the start of SOGC, climb up to ledge with boulder below overhang, pass overhang and move right to crack to Bivouac Ledge, then work your way to the top,


TR, Trad?

Photos of Psamead Ghostdance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Son of Great Chemney Direct, Red line D...
Climber on Son of Great Chemney Direct, Red line D...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2016
By Tradiban
Sep 9, 2010

Ah, I remember looking at this awhile ago wondering if there was a line. Did Tommy lead it?
By Alex A
Sep 10, 2010

Not sure about that, need to go to Tommy's trailer to find out, there is some gear at the crux, would be a great onsight vs working the shit out of it, then leading, has been lead old school 5.7 A1,

I think there maybe a harder var, climbing straight up vs moving right after roof,
By Tradiban
Sep 20, 2010

Did anyone follow the cracks then split left before the ledge to follow more crack to the top? Or try the left side of that face entirely?
By Alex A
Sep 22, 2010

Are you talking about cracks right after the roof one go's straight up vs moving right, or is it higher, to my knowledge the left crack after the roof, has not been climbed or the face,
By pwags
Aug 28, 2012

This route was originally put up on top rope by Tommy & Rob Drysdale. The name was actually Psamead Ghostdance. Not sure why the revisionists at the CMC changed it, hopefully an innocent mistake. The original name combined mysticism from the Sitting Bull's Ghostdance with the Psamead from Jack Ness mythology, which unfortunately is lost in the name change.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Aug 28, 2012

Happy to change it Paul, back to it's original name.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Nov 2, 2014

This is a fantastic line with great exposure and wild movement! I'm not sure why this one doesn't get more attention. I led this the other day, head point style, starting on the left face of the gully, then continuing to the pins on Son of a Great Chimney. Moving left, a techy traverse on slopers leads to a cramped stance and good gear under the roof. Clip the old pin and pull through powerful moves to a bomber finger lock and good nuts. Move right through a devious crux and a low percentage move that resulted in repeated whippers on my redpoint burns. Gain the slab, some good gear, and move left around the corner to one more powerful move up the finger crack. I'd say this thing goes around 12b and is certainly one of the best protected 12's at the lake! Get on it!
Possible FA? That would be cool!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Very cool! Nice work Josh!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 2, 2014

Josh, Nice send of a cool line! Not sure if Tommy led this rig. Only way to find out is to track him down at the bar or motor court where he lives. Beware if a ya go to his hovel he might answer the door in an apron and handgun! Club salute fer yer efforts. Peace and fuk-nes, Steve S. (Now puke)
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Nov 3, 2014

Thanks Fellas!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is a hidden gem of a route! Pretty sustained middle section getting to the ledge.

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