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Prymal Instinct 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Scott, EFR,'12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jesse getting into the business on the orange head...

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

70M rope required. This route used to have a hard seam start but now after some thick vegetation died you can avoid this to the right. Above is some steep crack through the bulge above the break, a testy sequence up the orange face and an incredible finish. Unfortunately the big ledge and the easy slab in the middle break it up a bit so it isn't sustained enough for another star. A couple of longer quickdraws are nice to have above the crack bulge section. Once you reach the dihedral near the top an obligatory Mr. Clean pose facing out from the wall almost guarantees the ascent.

Location 

Ten to fifteen feet right of the start of Pre-op Therapy.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Prymal Instinct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse at the start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Jesse at the start of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse taking what he calls the Mr. Clean pose.
Jesse taking what he calls the Mr. Clean pose.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse Schultz getting the coveted second ascent.
Jesse Schultz getting the coveted second ascent.

Comments on Prymal Instinct Add Comment
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By SummitSender
Feb 27, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I rarely comment on specific routes unless there is critical information needed for the route however this route is SO Awesome I had to comment and tell you go climb this thing!! Besides having imo way too many bolts it is a stellar route! Needs a full 70m to lower/rap off.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2017

How many clips did you skip?
By SummitSender
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Well I only had 12 draws on me. So how ever many bolts minus 12 is how many I skipped.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 1, 2017

So the question I asked myself when I was drilling it up was this; should I put in six bolts which is what I would need to do it, or should I put in 12 bolts so anyone can climb it. Since Jim and I had the benefit of a TR to clean it and set it up it would mean nothing personally to do it with run outs. It is a sport route so we bolted the crap out of it.

I can and do put up routes by soloing them first, sometimes ground up sometimes after TR runs to clean them. I could post them up with no pro and force everyone to TR them or not do them. That would be sort of selfish especially in the easier grades so we often put more bolts in than we need to lead them. This way boyfriends can lead them too.

Glad you had fun on it.

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