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Prusik Peak

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Prusik Peak Rock Climbing 

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Location: 47.48786, -120.78373 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,237
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006
This Afternoon

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Prusik Peak and Mt. Temple Ridge from the upper En...


This granite pyramid is not the largest piece of rock but its unusually solid rock is home to some of the cascades best alpine rock routes. Accomanied by a beautiful lake this peak has everything from the beginner to the burlified alpinist. While popular on weekends you can find the entire peak to yourself at times.

Look for booty neutrinos while your there.

Getting There 

Approach Prusik Peak via Snow Lakes Trail or Colchuck and Stuart lakes Trail. Both Trailheads require USFS parking permits and camping is by permit only between June 15 - Oct 15. Acquire permits at the Leavenworth Ranger Station.

For Snow Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. 4.3 miles to the Snow Creek Trail Head parking lot on the left. Follow the trail out of the parking lot past the billboard and over the creek. This trail will take you past Nada and Snow Lakes and put you at Lake Vivianne, looking directly at the south face of Prusik Peak, in about 10 miles with 5,000+ft elevation gain. Once at Lake Vivianne, follow trails up and right to Temple Lake and continue up climbers paths through boulders to the base of Prusik Peak for south face routes or hike to Prusik Pass to climb West Ridge route.

For Colchuck/Stuart Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. about 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Find FS road 7601 at the far west end of the campground and follow it until you reach the Stuart Lake Trailhead. Hike the trail for 2.5 miles and take an obvious left leading to Colchuck lake. Once at the lake, boulder hop to the south end of the lake, passing underneath Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks, heading for Aasgard pass to the left of Dragontail. Follow Aasgard to its top on a well maintained trail. From the top continue on the Upper Enchantments trail until Prusik Peak is visible and choose whether to approach via Prusik Pass or Lake Vivianne.

Note: Approach from Snow Lakes tacks on an additional, approximate 2 miles and 1000ft of elevation gain, but is much more gradual and consistent. I.e. Aasgard pass gains 2.2k ft elevation in .8 miles. Snow lakes trail is also much more shaded on hot, sunny approach days.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Prusik Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Prusik Peak:
West Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
South Face Beckey-Davis Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 650'   
Stanley-Burgner Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   
Solid Gold   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450'   
Der Sportsman   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Prusik Peak

Featured Route For Prusik Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Solid Gold

Solid Gold 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Prusik Peak
The rock is perfect and so are the surroundings. Solid Gold is an excellent route at a moderate length offering a nice alpine challenge. Many feel that that the first pitch is the crux although not the technical crux of the climb. Pitch breakdown (copied from Max Tepfer's comment below): P1, 10d-Right leaning crack system to under the roof. Obvious and hard to miss.P2, 11a-(but feels a lot like the 10d) step out and right under the roof and follow the corner to a long #...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Prusik Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on Prusik Peak (mistake: the Boving-Christe...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Prusik Peak (mistake: the Boving-Christe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Prussik Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Prussik Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlays Prusik Peak.
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlays Prusik Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: Prusik Peak - W. ridge
Prusik Peak - W. ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Prussik area. Photo by Blitzo.
Prussik area. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aasgard pass on the left - from here , we had an e...
Aasgard pass on the left - from here , we had an e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near our bivvy site my Colchuck Lake
Near our bivvy site my Colchuck Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain goat near the top of Aasgard pass
Mountain goat near the top of Aasgard pass
Rock Climbing Photo: Colchuck Lake from Aasgard Pass
Colchuck Lake from Aasgard Pass
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfection Lake and Prusik Peak
Perfection Lake and Prusik Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Prusik Peak - South Side
BETA PHOTO: Prusik Peak - South Side

Comments on Prusik Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 14, 2006
A very beautiful place!
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Aug 4, 2008
It's actually Prusik.
By Rafe
Aug 23, 2009
"Climb up Icicle canyon passing several lakes. Eventually take a trail heading up on the right (north) side of the canyon"

I hope no one comes to this site for an approach or route description.
By ChrisJoosse
Jul 9, 2010
The approach for this area is decidedly non-trivial, either direction. Unless you're going very fast-and-light, plan on a full day's hike just to approach. Weather can also be a big consideration and can call for other gear (like ice axes for Aasgard and for the traverse off the north face snowfield).

For the approaches, a map is really valuable:
You can pick these up in paper form in Leavenworth @ either climbing shop.
By Lhotsa
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 19, 2015
Who dropped a LaSportiva approach shoe at the base of Prusik Peak? I found it on Sunday 18th October, and looked around for the other shoe and instead found three Black Diamond micro stoppers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach shoe
Approach shoe

Rock Climbing Photo: micro stoppers
micro stoppers
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Jul 22, 2016
While the approach from Snow Lakes adds to the overall distance, I found it to be much easier to get a snow lakes permit than a core permit. The first day we did the lottery for a permit no one initially bid on the snow lakes zone and almost everyone went for Colchuk or Core. The second time the same thing happened and we were the only ones to say Snow Lakes so we got it. The setting is fantastic, the rock is great, and the Burgner-Stanley was awesome. I hope to go back for more.
By Anna Cohen
Aug 1, 2017

Stuck Rope, Please Help.

Reward, Dinner + Beer ($50)

Rope stuck after the 1st rappel.
Green 70m, Mammut Infinity Rope.
If recovered, please return to Anna Cohen 918-361-9552

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