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Prudential Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ???
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Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jeff... so trad right now...


The short hand crack in the middle of the Prudential cliff. Thankfully the nice practice crack is situated underneath the large roof in the center of the cliff so it is almost always dry. The gear is good but take care in your placements as the stone is a bit soft.

You will likely be wishing it was 2 or 3 times it's length. Once you get in to the flow you are at the ledge and clipping the anchor.


Obvious hand crack leading to the ledge under the roof.


Wide fingers to hands or maybe a #4 to make it feel cozy.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on the Pru Crack.
Jeff on the Pru Crack.

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By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 12, 2015

By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 8, 2016

3-Star quality climb, but 2 stars for the short length. There's plenty of action though, it was definitely well worth doing. A #4 cam would be very nice to protect the start. I used two finger-sized cams in the smaller crack to the left to protect the start instead (Metolius yellow and blue mastercams)which both looked bomber, but as the description says, the rock is soft so I doubled up.

And just to be clear, this is a NH "trad" 5.8+. Definitely harder than your typical Rumney 5.8. If it were bolted and at the Parking Lot Wall, I don't think 5.10a would be out of the question.

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