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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Bottoms Up T,TR 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Crack Au Lait T 
Curious George TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 
Good Ju-Ju T 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Harambe Lives 
Harambe's Mombé 
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
Hidden Slab 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws S 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
Prow TR 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Side of Mouse TR 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Bracksieck and Deb Thompson
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This is a nice line that is/was almost worth tossing in a few bolts to protect the first half. Given the new permit process, I'm not sure it'll get them. George and Deb risked a tight pendulum swing when they fired up it a year or two ago. Cluckers can throw in a #2 and #0.5 (and possibly a #0.75) to put in a directional or two to reduce dribbling down the leg, cluck, cluck, cluck.

The climbing crux is near the ground as you sort of slap up the first prow with slightly slippery feet. Beware of reachy too far right lest you clutch a portable hold or two. Gain the ledge. Climb the next prow. Gain the ledge. The mental bits come ascending the crack. There is one iffy, bulbous, right foot hold that held for us. Continue up the crack. Note, the top was partially cleaned. A #2 Camalot just below the top was a final directional.

This could have been done prior to the last year or two, but it had some obvious holds to clean that suggested otherwise.


This is right of Crack and starts up a pair of stacks micro-prows.


Using the anchors for Crack, you can just fire it if you don't get bothered by pendulums or you can use a #0.75, #0.5, and #2 Camalots (in order from below or reversed from above).

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