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The Gorge of Despair
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Prow of Cobra T 

Prow of Cobra 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Gary Valle and Phil Warrender 1979
Season: Spring-Summer-Fall
Page Views: 2,033
Submitted By: Kristian Solem on Feb 4, 2011

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Cobra Turret. Prow is left skyline

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


As the name says, this route climbs the prow of the Cobra. The 5.9 bits are well protected and some easier sections are runout. 7 or 8 pitches lead to 4th class climbing to the top out. The route goes between the left and right facing arches visible from the base. Some of the belays have one bolt, some two, and one is a fixed pin.

This is a fantastic climb!

Rappel the north face from some fixed pins to an old bolted anchor and then to the ground. Two 60 meter ropes just reach. A bolt kit might be a good thing to have. (Secor's third edition says one 60M rope will reach. THIS IS WRONG. I came up short with two 50M ropes. One 70 will not reach.

The route goes between the arches seen above.

I was using two 50M cords and came up 15 ft short of a hanging belay for the second rap. I chained together all my runners and draws and some gear to batman down to the anchor. Scary!


The west buttress of The Cobra, Gorge of Despair.


Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Two 60 M ropes needed to get off. I would bring a light bolt kit in case the descent anchors need help.

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By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Dec 29, 2016

Cool route, mostly pretty easy - 5.6ish - but the crux is a little heads up. Summit ridge is fantastic. I think we rapped with one rope. lots of weird anchors

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