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Prow Hugger  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: I. Altman, K. Allinger, B. Murdoc, Sept. 25th, 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: ian altman on Oct 1, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Prow Hugger.

Description 

This is an enjoyable longer route that ends well on a slightly overhanging prow with good exposure.

Start with blocky step-ups, and follow bolt line through easier terrain on Lemon-like choss (bolts 1-2). Stay right at 3rd bolt and out of crack and vegetated corner following positive holds into steeper, yet still fairly moderate terrain (bolts 4-6). Join a slightly overhanging arete or prow, and stay on the thing, finding the crux just above the roof (bolts 7-9). This has cool positioning up top with a Lemonesque sequence that gets easier the more you climb it.

This route is fresh, so expect a bit of dirt on the ledges for the next year or so. It has fairly decent rock, with the best of it on the top half of this longer pitch.

Location 

It is visible from the Dog Gully approach as you descend to the creek... just right of the Chucky Bill buttress.

Protection 

10 QDs with 2 bolt chained anchor. Please DON'T TAKE LOWERING BINERS from the chains!


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By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Oct 11, 2016

This is a worthwhile addition to the wall; thanks for putting it up! Don't let the dirty start deter you from hopping on this fun arete.
By George Bracksieck
Oct 11, 2016

The first third follows LA Woman, which diverges up and left into increasingly grungy terrain in the dihedral. Instead, PH continues straight up, into some steep, surprising moves on the arete.
By Steve Elder
From: Durango
May 27, 2017

As of 5/27/17, the lowering biners are gone and the chain is too small to accept many locking biners. It needs quicklinks...if tightened up enough they can't be stolen.
By ian altman
From: CO
Jun 1, 2017

Yeah thanks, Steve. I noticed the same when I climbing it earlier this month and didn't have leavers with me. Not sure why the F peeps can't just respect us using our old carabiners, and I have lockers that would fit, but they'd definitely get swiped!
By Jim Cunningham
Jul 22, 2017

Thanks to the FA crew - you created a nice route!

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