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WI3 M2

Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 265'
Original: WI3 M2 [details]
Season: Dec - Feb
Page Views: 2,375
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 10, 2009

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Starting out on the winter FA of Providence.


P1 M2 165': Climb the corner to its end on a broad ledge.
P2 WI3 100': Climb the ice slab to a short headwall and through this into the woods.
P1 begins up a narrow thread of ice deeply ensconced in the corner crack. After passing a narrow, steep spot, the going gets easier as the ice fattens and a chimney offers some refuge.


Same as the rock route: hike around Crane's southern corner, begin descending along the SE flank, then cut up to the Slanting Cracks Wall when it becomes visible. If you can't see it, descend to the Waterfall then cut up left along the slope, walking generally south or west as you ascend the slopes below. Providence lies in a huge left-facing corner.
Descent: Either 2-rope rappel or walk up and south into the Black Arches Wall col. Cross this to hook up with the BAW path or descend the col to a single-rope rappel.


Cams, Tricams, and screws.
Note that the first pitch is a natural funnel for anything falling from above, and screws on the 2nd pitch will melt out if it is sunny (cover them with snow!).

Photos of Providence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the first pitch.
Heading up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott tops out of the first pitch on a foggy day.
Scott tops out of the first pitch on a foggy day.

Comments on Providence Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Feb 1, 2011

Blog post covering a run up the route, with pictures here:
It is indeed a fun route, currently the first pitch is in good condition, the second in OK shape.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Nov 6, 2014
rating: WI3 M2

Very fun route, and a good intro to mixed climbing since there are really only a few rock moves, but a good chunk of the gear is rock protection on the first and even 2nd pitches. Much more difficult than it looks at the base or in photos. The runnel of ice is tough to stay balanced on and the protection is thin for the first 1/3 of the first pitch.

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