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Proud Mary  

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring & Fall (or the occasional warm Winter day)
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Working up the initial slab on "Proud Mary.&q...

Description 

Begin climbing the partially detached flake to its top (optional small to #1 cams). Move up and right on the face to a large hueco. From the hueco climb up the face and use the seam/crack above the ledge to gain a 4th bolt (the 5th bolt of "Xeno Dance"). Continue up and right on the face using small features and scoops. As the face steepens smear and use features to reach the last bolt at a thin seam. Use the seam and crescent shaped scoops to reach a final mantle into the recess at the top and the anchor.

Location 

Ten feet left of "Xeno Dance." Right of the huge chimney that splits the left side of the Corpse Wall. Start at the base of a reddish tinted flake with a serrated right edge.

Protection 

8 bolts (shares 5th bolt with Xeno Dance) & 2-ring Fixe anchor.


Photos of Proud Mary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Into the business on Proud Mary.
Into the business on Proud Mary.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the lower crux on "Proud Mary."
Pulling the lower crux on "Proud Mary."
Rock Climbing Photo: Liebacking on Proud Mary
Liebacking on Proud Mary
Rock Climbing Photo: Proud Mary
Proud Mary

Comments on Proud Mary Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 10, 2017
By tony bird
Jul 3, 2015

one of the top routes on this wall--several cruxes, with a devilish exit mantle.

a 3/4" to 1" cam in a slot above the entry flake will protect the approach to that high first bolt.
By polloloco
From: Downey, CA
Jul 12, 2015

I really enjoyed this route. Thought provoking slab to the roof bolt, then eases up to mild climbing all the way.
By tony bird
Jul 13, 2015

Pollo, if you call the rest of it "mild climbing", you probably missed the crossing with Xeno Dance. You cross Xeno--don't join it. The top half of Xeno is mild, the top half of Proud Mary is harder than the bottom. The hardest move is right at the end--a mantle just before the anchors.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 13, 2015

polloloco...I concur with Tony that you must have continued up the upper portion of Xeno Dance.
Proud Mary cuts up and right above the 4th bolt (or the 5th bolt of Xeno Dance). You'll find more thought provoking moves, NOT mild, near the top.
By Maidy
Aug 26, 2015

Have to give it a go next time we are in the area. I've TR'd that top section in the past- definitely 10c/d and surely a thought provoking lead now that it's bolted. The wall has so many features it's actually possible to create a number of diagonally crossing lines.
By polloloco
From: Downey, CA
Oct 8, 2015

I went back and confirmed you guys are absolutely right. I went off route and did the 2nd half of Xenodance instead! Removed my rating. Will have to climb this correctly next time!
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 26, 2015

Crossing an established line is pretty weak-sauce, but grid-bolt as you see fit.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Oct 26, 2015

A brilliant and sustained direct line that incorporates wonderful sandstone features, a fun layback flake, steep friction, and a challenging mantle at the end. Far from grid bolted, "Proud Mary" briefly shares a bolt with a meandering 5.9.
By Maidy
Dec 17, 2015

Been out to climb this a couple times now. The positive- upper half is a good technical steep climb worthy of some stars. The bad - NOT a fan of how the start was engineered. The roof bolt is extremely reachy for someone with a short wing span. If you don't bring gear- it's a R-rated fall and slightly contrived in light of the bolted crack immediately to the left that can be used to access the head wall. It should have just shared a start with an existing climb IMO
By Ally McBeal
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did this route today. Best route on the wall. Rad moves and great pro.
By Jeff constine
Dec 29, 2016

Sandy pile of low angle low-level routes. Grid bolted. Not worth the 20 min hike, but for the "average" climbing joe, they think it's great.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 29, 2016

Hey, Thanks, Jeff. Great route in a beautiful location and fun moves on solid stone. We, the average Joes, love our sandbox. Alas, no "rock stars" to rub elbows and take selfies with, but we think it's great. It's a 10 minute hike. Eat your Wheaties and leave the bong at home.
By alex carey
Jun 10, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

compromise on 15 minutes. Its a good route, probably the best at the crag.

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