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Hole in the Wall
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Apprentice, The S 
Au Natural T 
Dragonslayer S 
Hole in the Wall T 
Mentor, The S 
Poacher, The S 
Protege S 
Swiss Cheese T 
Transgression T 
Warden, The S 
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,405
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Thin crimping and technical foot work up a dead vertical wall. This route is safe, but the insecure moves and stances give it a spooky feel.The hardest climbing is in the first 35 feet, after which the climbing drops into the 10+ to 11- range. Fun all the way to the anchors.

To find Protege, look at the north-facing wall across from the red tower. The wall breaks into two distinct panels. The left panel is full of cracks and offers many trad climbs, as well as a couple of sport routes. The right panel is very compact and has four sport routes. Protege is the leftmost of these four routes.


14 bolts.

Photos of Protege Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Protege and Poacer, as seen from the Alcove.
BETA PHOTO: Protege and Poacer, as seen from the Alcove.

Comments on Protege Add Comment
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jul 31, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Climbed like Eldo. I thought I was on Prince of Darkness or something.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route. 11d.
From: chatfield lake ,co
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sickness, do it!!!!
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 25, 2011

Anchor upgraded 2011 courtesy of the ASCA, please show them your support.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2011

Super route. It felt a little easier than a typical Devil's Head 11d. This wall only gets sun at the end of the day.
By slim
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climbing on this one. A bit more sustained through the first half compared to the 3 routes to the right. The description of the protection seemed accurate to me - it felt kind of committing, despite being fairly well bolted. Maybe due having a bit of a pump during the last part of the crux, with a bit of a run (albeit fairly easy) to the next bolt.
By Ernie Moskovics
Sep 15, 2012

Head Crew notes:

Boomer (aka Rich Magill) was infamous for wandering off (with Burwick), sending a bunch of routes, then showing up after we were cooked from cleaning, drilling, and working moves, to grab the FA. This one, and "The Poacher" next door, are a tribute to his Zook Mastery.

Hail Boomer!
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 7, 2016

All protection bolt hangers were upgraded yesterday.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 19, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Stellar. Stays on you for the first 5 bolts, and then finishes as a super fun jug haul.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2017

The climbing on this was decent, but the line is contrived and forced one to climb up the most difficult sections of rock down low with an easy ramp never more than two moves away. The top protected surprisingly well with gear.

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