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Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Above and Beyon S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Slash, The T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1983
Season: west facing
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: bheller on Mar 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun slab with a weird up and down start. The crux is after the first bolt, and a fall onto the starting ledge is a real possibility- hence the R rating. Please don't break yourself. Follow the wandering bolts (definitely bolted on lead) to the shallow right facing corner- then up above to the seam/cracks. Finish with an unprotected 50 foot romp up the 5.0 prow.


Shares the start with Magic Circus. Climb up the broken crack 15 feet onto a little pillar/ledge, and then down climb to the right 10 feet. A 70 meter rope gets you down best.


Mainly bolts (5?) with a few finger sized cam options up higher. Lower off the bolt and pin anchor with webbing. The routes original pin/s have been removed and replaced with bolts.

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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This is a great climb but getting to the 2nd bolt is serious. Tensioning over from Magic circus/Gummi bolts to the 2nd bolt (or a mega stick-clip) allows the remainder of the route to be enjoyed by those no longer willing to risk breaking their ankles. A few cams in the .75 to purple TCU range are useful above the bolts. Anchor is now 2 bolts and you can get off with a single 60.

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