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Proper Pooper Placement 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Unknown?
Season: Fall
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Oct 14, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The line with start and direction shown

Description 

Butt placement matters.

Start sitting with a RH crimp sidepull with a slopey thumbcatch and LH on a crimpy undercling. Figure out your feet and make a hard pull off the ground (crux) to reach the first slopey three finger crimp on the arete. Get a LH sloper and follow slopers up the arete to a precarious top out.

Location 

In the warmup area, the arete just left of Jesus Every Time.

Protection 

2 Pads, nice to place one so you can just hop down


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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Oct 14, 2016

This was listed in Bryce's guidebook as an open project to the left of Jesus Every Time.

When I first started trying it I was thinking it would climb like a compression line using the slopey arete and the sidepulls out right. If someone can do it like that, it'd be sweet but the grade would change vastly depending on your wingspan. But I found better beta and instead it's a neat sloper climb with some shouldery moves.

By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Oct 21, 2016
rating: V7-8 7B

Glad you're getting on the less traveled climbs. This one has seen a few ascents beforehand but never got posted due to some brittleness, can't quite remember the name though. Hopped on it again the other day because the start holds looked a little different. You are right about the pull on being very specific for body positioning, short/reach stymied climbers may have a bit of trouble without stacked pads to utilize both holds. Pulling on feels like a v4-5 move for me but I don't go up to a crimp like you did, slap LH sloper, then either bump or bring RH up before bumping. The rest isn't a cakewalk and probably still in the v7/8 range.

I noticed chalk on some holds out right on the chossy flakes. Those flakes are now gone since they flexed immensely as soon as I touched them. Ripped them off with only the use of my hands and marginal effort so nobody takes some rock to the face. This may have created some new sidepulls but my beta sticks to the arete so I didn't use em.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Oct 23, 2016

Yeah the chalk on those flakes out right was from me. I did originally think I was going to have to compress my way up using them and the arete, the upper flake was super good but definitely hollow. The holds I used for my send are all super solid and aren't going anywhere though.

I'm not too surprised it's been done before as there's a hard 7 right around the corner, any idea who might have gotten the real FA then?

I don't know why more people don't come out to South Mountain, there's some really good stuff and a lot of potential. Bring a brush and an adventurous attitude and you're gonna have a good time.

Hah I could not pull off that left hand bump like that, I'd cheese grate off each time.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Oct 23, 2016
rating: V7-8 7B

That crimp move is impressive, I wanted no part of it so I stuck to the slopers ha. First one to do it in the group I was in was a guy named Brett (i'm terrible with names so I don't remember the last name, just that he was from MA). No idea if it was sent beforehand.

South Mountain is a great spot for sure! There is a ton of undocumented stuff beyond the fire tower that is worth a visit. If you reach the tower, keep going straight and a bit right to try to pick up an unnoficial orange blaze trail. Its not South Ridge trail but does connect back to it. Some really nice climbs over there that occasionally have chalk every now and then.

As far as I know, there are still some unsent lines in the lower tower area. Some don't look too bad either, just need a lot of cleaning/detail work.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 11, 2016
rating: V7-8 7B

This climbed better than I expected, so I was pleasantly surprised. Definitely a hard first pull. You almost have to will yourself off the ground.

There's definitely some chossy rock still, but hopefully that will clean up with some traffic. I had feet break on me multiple times. As a side note, I ended up using the sidepulls out right.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 22, 2016
rating: V8 7B

Short and stout. I ended up slapping my left hand up to a sloper then bumping it up to a higher sloper. I used the right hand sidepulls and dynoed right hand to the top of the boulder. I thought bringing the left hand up after the dyno was probably the crux(at least from the start it felt really desperate) but cool little problem.

On a side note Gavin and I flashed by going right hand up first then exiting left on the good foot holds. V4 this way?
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 23, 2016

Sick Troy! That beta is what I wanted to do originally, but I ended up not using any of the sidepulls out right. For the left exit do you pretty much just end up climbing it like a slab? I did it that way from a stand once and it felt way easier, but is a different line since it didn't really climb the arete.

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