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The Babylon Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
PFM. Pure f $%^& * magic.  T 
All American Arete S 
All American Hand Crack T 
Babylon T 
Box Tops T 
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 
Far East T 
Left for Dead T,TR 
Proof of Purchase T,S 

Proof of Purchase 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, John Bachar, Dave Hatchet 1986
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on Jan 29, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the NE side of Babylon Crag. Disclaimer -...

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Description 

Start the climb at the right side of the beautiful slab to lookers left of All American Hand Crack. The climb starts up the corner and then on a shallow slab makes moves out on to the face. 3 old style bolts are followed (these need to be replaced due to rust and questionable nature of the bolts) to more natural gear placements in cracks below a roof. A no hands mantle well out from the first bolt to continuous slab climbing is the crux.

Location 

Right side of the beautiful slab right of All American

Protection 

3 bolts and Select pieces to 1"


Comments on Proof of Purchase Add Comment
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By Patrick Mulligan
May 13, 2014

Due to the quality of the old bolts and the possible long falls (who would have though the climb would be bold given the 1st ascentionists)- 5/16th button heads and flaked rusty recalled leeper hangers - this climb should only be toproped. That said, having tr'd the route a few times, I don't know if the quality of the climb warrants a retro-job. To make the climb at all safe an extra bolt would need to be added (big slab / ledge fall from the crux).

Post up with your opinions. I have the hardware to replace the aging bolts if consensus is such that it deserves it. Its a testament to the FA party that they bolted this thing on lead.

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