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Methow Inspiration Route S 
Prime Rib of Goat S 
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Promised Land 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A1 [details]
FA: Bryan Burdo
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Brenden Sullivan on Nov 21, 2013

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Description 

A long-term project, of which the first 500 feet have been thoroughly cleaned and well-bolted on excellent rock. The remainder of the climb is an adventure in route-finding on easy to moderate and un-groomed rock ending in a scramble to the summit making this the longest known "limestone-cilicate" climb in the United States. First three pitches are highly recommended and can be done at grade II.

Pitch 1 - 5 Bolts, Easy 5th, 120 ft
Pitch 2 - 13+ Bolts, 5.10-, 150 ft
Pitch 3 - 12+ Bolts, 5.10c, 150 ft
Pitch 4 - Gear, 5.9+, Anchors
Pitch 5 - Gear, 5.5, Anchors
Pitch 6 - Gear, 5.5, Anchors
Pitch 7 - Gear, 5.8, Anchors
Pitch 8 - 2 Bolts, Gear, 5.9, Anchors
4 more pitches, 5.11a/A1, scramble to the top or rappel Sisyphus

Location 

Park 3.1 miles from the Mazama store, find the climbers path and hike 20 minutes to the wall. The route is located on the Huge wall a few hundred feet left of the cairns for the "Inspiration Route" and to right of "Sisyphus"

Protection 

Bring at least 15 draws for the first 3 pitches. Full rack for the full adventure.


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By Eli B.
Aug 9, 2016

Traverse left, away from the start of Methow Inspiration Route, and up a small gully above a prominant pine tree to find the base of the route. If you find yourself scrambling up fourth or low fifth class rock looking for the bolts, you've likely already missed them. That said, scrambling up the first pitch isn't that bad.

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