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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Curren, Paul Landrum - 1975
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 2,818
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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me on prometheus

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Prometheus is a fantastic climb that has a spectacular variety of climbing. It generally has easy .10 climbing punctuated by 3 crux sections. They tend to coincide with several miniature roofs with the hardest crux coming near the top of the pitch on rattley fingers.


This route is the last route before crossing the catwalk section of the trail and to the right of a difficult bolted line.


Nuts and cams to #3 camalot

Photos of Prometheus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Prometheus
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Scherneck stems mid way on Prometheus.  Pho...
Nathan Scherneck stems mid way on Prometheus. Pho...

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

So good. The start is strenuous finger jamming, but good gear takes the sting out. Once through the start expect a long stemming journey of increasing difficulty. This one will keep your attention all the way to the anchor (which is annoyingly located way to the right of the climb). A few moves up top are a little above your gear - but good gear always appears right where you need it.

Gear - Nuts, 2 sets of cams from green alien to #1 camalot. Maybe a #2 camalot as well.

Who was Prometheus?

Prometheus was the son of Iapetus who was one of the Titans. He tricked the gods into eating bare bones instead of good meat. He stole the sacred fire from Zeus and the gods. Prometheus did not tell Zeus the prophecy that one of Zeus's sons will overthrow him. In punishment, Zeus commanded that Prometheus be chained for eternity in the Caucasus. There, an eagle (or, according to other sources, a vulture) would eat his liver, and each day the liver would be renewed. So the punishment was endless, until Heracles finally killed the bird. Prometheus is known to be one of the most interesting characters in Greek Mythology.
By Jon Rhoderick
Jun 1, 2013

There are anchors directly over the route. It's quite run out on the rim rock but it's easy climbing, you really wouldn't want to fall. It could use some chains right now it's webbing and rap rings.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Aug 14, 2016

This now has a new anchor with fixed steel biners right at the top of the route. no big runout to a nasty anchor any more.

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