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Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+ X

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+ X [details]
FA: Not yet!
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: Graham O. on Jun 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: holds mentioned in the problem description

Description 

This is an old John Sherman project that nobody has really ever gotten close on. It takes the line straight up the middle of one of the most intimidating walls in P-Way. Honestly, I doubt anyone will come close until one of the pros will come and try it. That being said, it looks like one of the best climbs in P-Way.

Jump start to a good edge and campus to a bad LH pinch right above it. Get a hand-heel match and lock off to a bad crimp. Match and deadpoint to a good sidepull. If you stick this, then pat yourself on the back, because you have just gotten farther on this then the Verm ever did. Anyway, jump to a good sidepull and make the crux bump to a crappy sloper. Don't look down as you hit the lip and top out.

Location 

In between Mothra Stewart and Up, this goes up the huge blank face.

Protection 

This thing is 30 feet tall, so you should probably top rope it. If you must you should have ten plus pads and five plus spotters if you were to try and Boulder it like Sherman did.


Comments on Project Add Comment
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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jun 25, 2016

I hate to be a debbie downer, but I've checked out the holds above the start edge, and the ones I checked out were all extremely hollow and would probably rip off. I've never actually heard of anyone trying something up this face, the edge just always has chalk on it. I've wondered if I line would go up this face, but unfortunately I think many of the holds would have to be reinforced. Cool to hear that some moves have actually been done on it though! That would be insane if someone actually sent a line up this thing!

Edit: You should add "Project" to the name or just rename it "Project" since it hasn't been done yet.
By Graham O.
Jul 20, 2016

After looking at this some more, I have given a big downgrade. Through some dirt, I have found a useable intermediate for the insane bump to the sloper(the crux). I agree a send of this would be epic!

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