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Unnamed V4 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: Mark Sprague , Fall 2016
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Dana Seaton on Jul 22, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The line as done

Description 

On the front face start with hands in the horizontal crack below the vertical seam. Do a tricky move to get established in the seam with your feet in the horizontal than shuffle your feet a little left until you can get your toe in the quartz pocket. Use some very thin edges and balance to angle up left a little and gain a good edge in an angling seam (staying right of the arete) then top out.

Staying with the vertical seam and topping out straight up as first envisioned is a little contrived but will possibly go at a considerably higher grade.

Protection 

A couple pads - flat landing with tree and stonewall behind.


Comments on Unnamed V4 Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Mitrano
From: Wakefield, RI
Sep 14, 2016
rating: V8 7B

I tried this the other day and it seems pretty cool. I was able to establish my feet in the horizontal crack but couldn't figure it out from there. Seems harder then V7 but idk. Is the smaller higher vertical seam to the left on?
By Dana Seaton
Sep 15, 2016

Like the rest of the boulder, this thing needs proper cleaning. I think that will make the feet feel more solid. So that pretty cool you were able to go straight up into the seam, then it becomes tempting to traverse off left or right. I say if you can go straight up the crack without reaching to the left arete everything is on. It may be contrived, don't know as I haven't made more than the first move up the crack.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 31, 2016
rating: V3+ 6A+

I did this yesterday. After not climbing for a few weeks I came on it fresh and with slightly different beta that made the bottom seem much easier. After getting established in the vertical crack with my feet in the horizontal, I shuffle my feet to the left a little so I could get my left toe into the quartz pocket then angled my hands left on some small edges and reached high for a good edge in the angling seam and topped out just right of the arete. It was only at the top that I could have used the arete, but it was just as easy to reach the top so it did not feel contrived. Going straight up from the top of the vertical crack seemed pretty thin and contrived, but may be doable with a small pinchy knob at a lot harder grade. The way I did it seemed like a 3+ or 4 at most but I know I threw myself at the opening several sessions before to no avail so who knows.