Professor Plum With The Candlestick In The Conservatory
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Tom Hanson, 1995 |
Page Views: | 1,736 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Aug 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Hands down, this is the best route at the Playground. The climbing begins on a steep, West-facing wall around the corner from Chinook.
Start in a bulging overhang with a very awkward move to an undercling above your head. The goal shortly will be a pocket above and left. At best, this will gain a chance to get over your feet, but the move is hard and is indeed 5.12 - off the deck. However, the game is not over. Sequential 5.11 climbing with some long reaches to crimpy, thin cobbles and shallow pockets await. Pick up some added spice in the run out to the anchor.
Like many routes here and elsewhere, it feels much harder than 5.12a until you start to dial in the beta. This is in the top ten at CWC. The plum picker here is Tom Hanson.
Start in a bulging overhang with a very awkward move to an undercling above your head. The goal shortly will be a pocket above and left. At best, this will gain a chance to get over your feet, but the move is hard and is indeed 5.12 - off the deck. However, the game is not over. Sequential 5.11 climbing with some long reaches to crimpy, thin cobbles and shallow pockets await. Pick up some added spice in the run out to the anchor.
Like many routes here and elsewhere, it feels much harder than 5.12a until you start to dial in the beta. This is in the top ten at CWC. The plum picker here is Tom Hanson.
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