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Proboscis 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Todd Worsfold and Sean Burke
Page Views: 1,223
Submitted By: Stas Yurkevich on Oct 16, 2015  with updates from Todd Worsfold

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Aaron Hope on the first pitch of "Proboscis&q...

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Description 

Bolted route right from Peregrine.
Two bolt-protected slightly run out pitches in a great setting with fragile holds. Bolts locations make for some difficult and spicy clips. Belay on the top (of second pitch) from a big hole and walk off on descend.
First pitch:
Move to the left from second bolt is super cool- a lot of air under and great holds.
60 meters rope is enough for top-roping the first (most fun) pitch.
Could be done in one 58-meters pitch with 12+ quick-draws.

Second pitch:
Rock is fragile. The move after first bolt was the hardest for me. After that it goes way easier. At some point route goes way left from the bolt - put your longest sling to reduce rope drag or back clean it.

Location 

In middle between Peregrine and Bridge of Sighs routs. Arête between two caves. Route could be easily seen from the trail. Bolts are camouflaged to the color or the rock.

Protection 

9-14 quick draws


Photos of Proboscis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Hope on the second Pitch of Proboscis
Aaron Hope on the second Pitch of Proboscis
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Worsfold on the first pitch of the FA of Prob...
Todd Worsfold on the first pitch of the FA of Prob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting under first bolt
BETA PHOTO: Getting under first bolt

Comments on Proboscis Add Comment
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By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Nov 2, 2015

Good route and well protected at the hard bits. Actually, its well protected in general and the rock is generally good, but you need to be careful on the easy terrain (5.7) as there are some friable holds. A couple more ascents will make this an area classic.
By Todd Worsfold
Nov 6, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Although the guidebook (and this site) give "Proboscis" a 10.c rating, I feel that it's a sandbag at that grade and that one ought to be comfortable on 10.d or 11.a to lead it.
By Jacob Glazebnik
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Super fun. Thin, technical, brave. Really well protected, but be careful once you move into "easier" terrain above the anchors. It may be easy climbing but, you'll find many spots where all 3 points of contact are on choss.

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