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Proboscis 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: Marlin Thorman on May 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Approach topo. Basically just let the gully below...

Description 

Proboscis is a nice moderate and a great way to reach the top of the Dragon's Back.

Pitch 1 - 5.7
Start on the southwest side of dragon back and follow easy cracks up a dihedral to the ridge line and a ledge with large tree.

Pitch 2 - 5.8
Climb up blocks and then follow a nice hand crack up the ridge. Belay at the base of a 15 ft wall with a flaring crack.

Pitch 3 - 5.8+
Climb the flaring crack up the wall and then continue to follow the ridge line to the very top.

To descend there are bolts to rappel from at the top of Owl Dihedral. Don't miss the 2nd set of bolts in the middle of the face between pitches 1 and 2 of Owl Dihedral if you only have a single 60m rope.

Location 

Follow the trail down the hill to the creek. Hop across the creek and scramble up gullies and ledges. You are looking for a nice dihedral on the right end of the main wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches. No bolted belays.


Photos of Proboscis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb follows ridgeline to single rap with 70.
BETA PHOTO: Climb follows ridgeline to single rap with 70.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 ledge
P2 ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: At the rap.  Kinda awkward little step over to the...
At the rap. Kinda awkward little step over to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 beauty.  Stiff 5.8 fo sho.
P3 beauty. Stiff 5.8 fo sho.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail running P2.  Buahaha :-)
Trail running P2. Buahaha :-)

Comments on Proboscis Add Comment
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By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Dec 28, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was ready for this line to be...I dunno. Something else. It's REALLY fun but don't have high expectations for the first two pitches. P1 is a pretty mellow bush scramble with a few 5.7 moves. P2 was the one that stunned me. I saw 5.8, was ready for a 5.8, did the first move and a half at 5.8, and then basically did a 10 degree angle trail run to the base of the flared crack. P3 is no joke. I guess one could contend with whether it's worth it just for this pitch but I thought it was. The five moves off the belay are stiff 5.8 for sure. Walk the ridge to the older angles (should be replaced possibly) and single rap on a 70. We just made it with the 70.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Mar 6, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such an awesome climb, great ledges and awesome climbing!

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