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Probation Violation S 
Wiggly S 

Probation Violation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Fred Berman, Marty Lewis, 4/1993, top down
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Alec Ferguson on Jan 13, 2015

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Description 

Really cool long pitch up a stunning face. Balancy and precise, but steep enough to make you work for it. Beautiful position over a bend in the Owen's River.

Location 

Just left of the left side of the Eldorado Roof. About 10 meters right of the ladder that bypasses the ledge with Dilithium Crystal. Starts up a shallow corner. Shares the first bolt with Wiggly.

Protection 

14 bolts, 2 anchor bolts.

The Marty Lewis guidebook lists this route as 42.5 meter lower off. I managed to lower off with a 70 meter rope, but my buddy had to let the end slip through the Grigri! Some brands cut their ropes longer than 70 meters -- mine is Mammut. Anyways, tie a knot!

If you can't reach the ground, you can lower to the anchors of Enraged Pixie. It might be hard to get your remaining quickdraws on lower out, however.


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 18, 2017

A tad bit sporty at the start, then well protected as the difficulties increase. You get a pump, figure out a sequence, grab a jug and think you've got it until you don't.Sporty again to the end as the difficulties subside but now you are pumped and scared. Take your time, it's all there.

Route seemed a tad bit dirty, don't see too many people on this one. I was just able to get down with my 70M.

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