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Box Canyon (Central)
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Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: someone?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Aug 5, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Prizefighter arete.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Prizefighter starts standing on good holds on the arete, make a few moves up the arete on good holds to a long move to a crimp and a commiting mantle on small crystals. Downclimb the tree to get off the boulder. Very fun!!


Take the trail up Box Canyon to where it Ys, take the right trail for maybe twenty feet, and you'll see the huge balanced boulder that is not held up by anything but the rock it sits on. Right by the picnic area with an amazing arete.


Pads. Spotter would be nice for the mantle, but not neccessary. Be careful not to tip the boulder over....

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By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 5, 2009

I'm not sure if this was an FA.... It's not in Davin's guidebook, but it's right by the trail and it looks so inviting, so it may have been done, let me know if you know. I'm sure Davin or Edl knows....
By molony
Aug 9, 2009

This has been done before, very few times. Couldn't find any info on the FA or the name though.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 10, 2009

Thanks for the info Molony, I figured it had been done, I don't see how anyone could pass up this cool looking problem, you should try it, it's so much fun! If the first ascentionist has a name for it, let me know. I'm not trying to claim fa's on someone else's problem, I'm just trying to post problems so people can enjoy the amazing bouldering Vedauwoo has to offer. (That's what this site is for, if I'm not mistaken....)
Jun 23, 2010

Walking through Box Canyon this weekend with Bob Scarpelli, he pointed this boulder out and asked if I had ever done it. He told me it is an old school problem that was once upon a time referred to as 5.10-, though instead of going up to the mantle they would just lie back up the rail a few feet and then throw a heel and mantle onto the scoop shaped slab, then top out. It seems that Prizefighter would be a variation to this problem in that mantling onto the slab would be off, and instead one continues up the rail and mantles at the apex of the boulder instead. Bob did not know the name of the problem as it predates his time there and is from a period where such things were undocumented and generally not named.

Not being a dick, just sharing some cool history. Knowing this it is interesting and cool to see how climbing has evolved over the years.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 23, 2010

Cool, thanks for the info, Justin. I figured Scarpelli or some old-schooler had climbed it before, it's a much better problem to ride the arete till the apex and mantle! It's a fun problem regardless!

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