Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Private Idaho

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hidden Treasure S 
Private Idaho S 

Private Idaho Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.25715, -105.09857 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,349
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 1969
Forecast:
Today

9° | -6°
Thursday

21° | 14°
Friday

46° | 25°
Saturday

42° | 17°
Sunday

30° | 15°
Monday

34° | 20°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Private Idaho has an interesting history. It was the first rock to see new development in 1994 or 1995 when things got started on Devil's Head - despite it having the very worse approach of all of the rocks developed here. Private Idaho presently hosts three routes, one being trad the other two being sport. Climbing is typical of the best stone at Devil's Head with some terrific incut flakes on a bullet proof matrix. The climbs face South by South-West and being high on the wall hold sun until late afternoon.

Getting There 

The best approach to Private Idaho is to climb the Crimpfest Wall via Dave's Dilemma and walk left to the Private Idaho nook. Another approach is to top out on Rock Nazi and scramble down into the Idaho nook.

Climbing Season

For the Devil's Head area.

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Private Idaho

Hidden Treasure 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : South Platte : ... : Private Idaho
It is sad that it took more than a year after this fine line was established for me to jump on it. The FA team raved about incut flakes and high quality climbing; however, the convenience of doing other things on the crimpfest was enough to keep Hidden Treasure on the back burner. Well, I'll second the rave reviews, however belatedly. This has beautiful climbing on great features in a quite little nook. Perhaps we can call it adventure sport climbing. I'd go three stars for the stone, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Private Idaho Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2011
This area is hard to access, but it's worth it--it's just a nice spot and the two sport climbs are stellar. We got in by rappelling from the top of pitch 1 of Remote Control. (Watch for rope snags when you pull!) You can't get back out that way, though. You can get in and out from the anchors of Dave's Dilemma, but be aware that those anchors are in a spot which is a bit scary to walk to. It's best to set up a short belay to get somebody to the anchors from the top.
By Aaron Glasenapp
From: Denver, CO
Nov 2, 2016
4 stars for each of the routes, 4 stars for the setting, and 4 stars for the adventure of getting there! If you top out on Dave's Dilemma, walk north but stay to the left. If you angle right slightly through a boulderfield, you'll end up in a much larger nook just behind the summit of The Headstone. We ended up there, looking at a dozen undocumented routes, before we backtracked and found the much smaller Private Idaho nook.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 2, 2016
Glad you had fun there, and the routes seemed worthwhile. The addition of about 100 new routes in that vicinity made it worth doing hardware upgrades this summer, and there's a spur trail now from Devil's Gate that accesses everything without too much adventure. I'll add some of this to Rakkup here before too long. Curiously, Private Idaho was the first sport route at Devil's Head and is still one of the most obscure.