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Private Hell S 
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Private Hell 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Bret Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,630
Submitted By: David Shiembob on Jul 9, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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My favorite picture, Naomi on the FA on TR of the ...


Fun traversing line. Third fully bolted line on Millstone (counting from the bottom). The crux is around the first bolt. Edgy face climbing that ends by wrapping around a corner to the anchors, which feels pretty exposed. Fun, and the follower can take some big swings if they pop soon after unclipping a bolt.


4 bolts to chain anchors

Photos of Private Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing
Me climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.
Naomi on TR, Tyson belaying.
Rock Climbing Photo: Naomi getting some decent air time!!
Naomi getting some decent air time!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the top!
Almost to the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on lead.
Me on lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on lead.
Me on lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making that 3rd clip.
Making that 3rd clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.
BETA PHOTO: Private Hell and Tie Die w/o lines.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Private Hell 2) Tie Die
BETA PHOTO: 1) Private Hell 2) Tie Die
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2nd clip on this route is tenuous and scary.
The 2nd clip on this route is tenuous and scary.

Comments on Private Hell Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very tricky sequence down low (between bolts 1 and 2), and my group all felt this was harder than Tie Die. 5.10c was our consensus. Once you reach the 2nd bolt, it eases up drastically, until the last bolt (kind of mantly move), and then a heady finish to the anchors as your hands get all slopey. Enjoy
By Jake K.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2007

I also think this route is more challenging than the tie die route. Especially clipping the chains.... You have to work your way around the corner onto all slopers. Unless you are super tall! Once you have it on tope rope, try the roof between the two climbs, it starts out easy, then when you get to the edge of the roof, its a looong reach to a small hold, then its over. Just be careful you dont pull out the loose big block underneath the overhang!!
By Alec LaLonde
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Probably more hazardous for the follower than the leader, as a fall at the crux after unclipping the first bolt can be bad. My girlfriend took a good swing at this section and sprained her ankle pretty badly -- made for an unpleasant journey back out to the car.
By dnaiscool
Apr 22, 2015

Spooky...dangerous for the (weak) second...not recommended. There are a plethora of really great climbs in this area, so just pass this one by, is is certainly not gonna live up to the visual beauty of the stone it climbs...and you could get an injury.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jul 16, 2015

I remember this route being a bit of a dumpy lead. However I think it is worth mentioning that trending to the right from the first to the second bolt is the way to do it. I took several falls on the first bolt because I kept getting drawn into the corner. However if you take the exposure and edges on it is a pretty genuine 5.10a, and the route flows much better this way. Not a good choice for a new climber 2nd as mentioned above.

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