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Private Eye 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, April 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Apr 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Hidden Slab A. Private Eye 5.10a B. Under the Rad...


The leftmost of four bolted routes.

Climb a slab past 6 bolts to a ledge, then up a headwall with easier climbing to the top. The crux is smearing on edges and pure friction past the first 4 bolts. (5.10a)

The rock quality is less than perfect, but will only get better with traffic.


6 bolts, CDs from 1 to 1.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor 80 ft.

Photos of Private Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the work up close.
Doing the work up close.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary climbing Private Eye.
Mary climbing Private Eye.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker Tech on Private Eye.
Tucker Tech on Private Eye.

Comments on Private Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 28, 2011

Good route which will only get better with traffic....again;..way to go, Bob Gaines....
By Mary Moser
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 18, 2011

We enjoyed this route last weekend. Some loose stuff, but it's cleaning up nicely already.
By Adam Stackhouse
Apr 23, 2012

As of 4/22, this route still rains with kitty litter.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 18, 2014

Not a person out seeking the slab routes I found this quite enjoyable and thankful of my partner Kelly who was doing all the leading for the day. Well placed bolts with the crux probably around the 4th bolt then eases considerably towards the top. Thoughtful anchors make for an easy rap. I would not consider this a grain pile spring of 2014.... must have cleaned up or my bar for such quite low?
By Rob Stahl
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 10, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Led this route on 11/9/2014. It was a lot of fun and is cleaning up pretty well. Last few bolts are still a little grainy. Getting to anchors is a bit of a run out, so it would be good bring a medium cam if you are not comfortable on easy 20+ runouts. Nice work Bob.
By Doug18
Feb 22, 2016

Did the route yesterday bottom has cleaned up a little bit of loose stuff up top. A .5BD for the crack if you don't like the run out. We did all 4 routes here with a group and had the place to ourselves, was nice! Way to go Bob
By Kevin Mokracek
From: Burbank
Mar 4, 2016

Climbed this yesterday. Super fun climb. no kitty litter to speak of, very clean.

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