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Princess Spire
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Princess Spire Regular Route T 

Princess Spire Regular Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter and Gordon Douglass, '77 or '78
Page Views: 1,365
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Andrew G leading the regular route


climb from noptch between Tisha Spire up low angle varied cracks (5.4) to ledge w/ big tree. Then splitter corner up to roof, traverse L (crux) to anchors, continue up unprotected easy slabs to summit.


Southeast of Acropolis, easiest approach from Midgely Bridgely to Jordan trail to north end of Steamboat slickrock slabs.


Gear to #4camalot

Photos of Princess Spire Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Miranda starting her journey out of the corner.
Miranda starting her journey out of the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the classic corner and roof as seen from t...
BETA PHOTO: View of the classic corner and roof as seen from t...

Comments on Princess Spire Regular Route Add Comment
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By Gordon Douglass
Jun 8, 2006

Scott Baxter and I did the first ascent of this route back in 1977 or 1978.

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 5, 2013

Just did this route today and thought it was great! One note however is that on the easy slabs above the anchor there is a 500+lbs block resting on a teeter totter. We debated trundling it, but since my dog was hanging out at the bottom decided that would be a bad idea. Plus didn't know how far down the hill it would roll. Instead we reinforced it with a bunch of rocks to hopefully stabilize it for future parties. I would advise future parties to climb around it to the right... Super fun approach and climb though!
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This line is classic! Gorgeous rock too. Climbing it at sunset is an incredible experience, the way the corner lines up on the sun-shade line.

Found relatively sustained climbing at the 10+ grade, with a good dose of excitement on the roof traverse.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 5, 2017

Not that long but sooo good, an unheralded classic! All you really need are 2 each #2 and #3.

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