REI Community
Sherwood Forest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boyz From The Hood S 
Fatman and Robin S 
Little John's Big Stick T 
Maid Marian S 
Men in Tights S 
Merry Men S 
Prince and The Pauper, The S 
Prince of Thieves S 
Robbin' the Hood S 
Sheriff's Tariff S 
Tony Bubb's Little Stick S 
Tuckered and Fried S 

Prince of Thieves 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Richard Wright
Page Views: 3,295
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 1. Merry Men (5.11a/b) 2. Robbin' the Hood (5.11c)...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    In my opinion, this is the best route at Sherwood. Fire through the dynamic crux between the second and third bolt and then try not to get too pumped as you work the crack up to the overhang. Once at the overhang, sit down and relax. Then continue to the top through another tricky 5.11 section. 3 stars


    A longer sport route. 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Photos of Prince of Thieves Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: About to start the crux on Prince of Thieves.
    About to start the crux on Prince of Thieves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux on TR.
    Starting the crux on TR.

    Comments on Prince of Thieves Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 20, 2001

    One of the few worth visiting on this crag. Fun, fun, fun. Use the feet Luke.....
    By Quinn Stevens
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 7, 2002

    Although I still feel this is the best route on the wall, in retrospect 3 stars may be a little much. Isn't as good as say, Tell-Tale Heart.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 25, 2002

    It's a slab. Of course you were scared......
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 8, 2002

    Correction...Robbin' the Hood is route #2 and Prince of Thieves is #3 in the above photo.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 7, 2003
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    If you are tall and have long arms, the crux goes static. Nice route in general, 3rd bolt is easiest to clip at the waist.

    Two stars. I've been on significantly cooler sport routes.

    Maybe 12a?
    By Joe Collins
    Aug 19, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Pretty hard, devious, boulder problem.
    By TBD
    Aug 25, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Certainly the best route that I tired in this area. Powerful crux on marginal feet. Fun 5.11 climbing above.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 9, 2004

    If this route is 12b and the beautiful arete at upper Animal World is 12b then we got a problem. Either way, a fun route that is not in the least bit dynamic (and I'm only 5'10''). Use the good feet through the crux.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I'd grant this route three stars. It's got a great sequency crux down low, a fairly sustained middle, and a pumpy finish. I really had to work out the crux. The feet are key. Tony's advice is useful: don't clip bolt 3 until it's at your waist. Clipping from the sloper ledge below it will just burn you out. Be sure to get a nice rest at the ledge under the roof, because the last part is pretty pumpy. The fin at the top isn't that great; try to layback it.
    By ChanVan Schaack
    Sep 2, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I can't believe this route only gets two stars in the book! In my opinion, one of the best 12b's in the Canyon - bullet rock, cool moves, and pretty long by Bocan standards. Go do it!
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 10, 2012

    This route is great. Just made a trip up to Sherwood Forest and certainly didn't expect the climb to be this good. For sure a classic with a great boulder problem down low and then fun climbing and somewhat of a long route for BoCo. Do it!
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Aug 10, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Pretty great route and the best at this crag. This would even be worth doing if you climb it at 5.11 C0, because even the climbing above the crux is pleasant.

    I can see how some folks call this 5.12a. It seems as though this crag has a lot of contrivances and climbing about 10' right of the 2nd bolt, and then working back left to the 3rd bolt would put it at 12a and make it certainly less static than the 12b way.

    Either way, it's a good route worth doing and feels pretty right on for the 12b grade going directly up from the 2nd bolt.
    From: Nederland, CO
    Aug 19, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Best route in the area for sure, so glad I did it! I would say this is pretty classic for BoCan. Like an upside-down Tell-Tale Heart.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About