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Bil-Jac-Son S 
Get Up Stand Up S 
Loggia S 
Mellow Mood S 
Prince of Darkness S 
Sabotage TR 
Shifticus S 
Small Axe T 
Solstice S 

Prince of Darkness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeremy Steck
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: Tim Anderson on Oct 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Jeremy Steck on the first ascent of Prince of Dark...

Description 

Climb up the short face passing 2 bolts to the main larger overhang. Climb out the overhang and pull the crux at the lip to gain the rest in the blocky section above. Finish by moving up and right to the shuts under the alcove above. Fixed draws on the roof clips.

Location 

Climb the line out the center of the main overhang (above the stone seats). Start on the right end of the large block under the overhang.

Protection 

6 bolts, ring shuts


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By Matt Carroll
Apr 11, 2017

The death blocks in the roof were very loose as of april 2017. I bailed off the first fixed draw (also a bit mank) because I could wiggle the tombstone size blocks that you need to pull into the roof. If it did go it would be a bad day for you and your belay bud...

YMMV, hell maybe it has been that loose for years.

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