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Prince of Crimps 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 7'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Josh Villeneuve
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: josh villeneuve on Oct 1, 2013

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Description 

Sit start on razor thin crimps, the right one being much better than the left, find feet that work for you and fire up and right to a good crimp in the shape of a pyramid...hold it...set your left foot and do a left hand deadpoint for a sloper knob on the lip. Match the lip, throw a right heel hook onto a crimp rail and rock over on one of the classiest mantels I've ever seen.

Location 

Backside of the King boulder, center of the face.
To the right of Speedway boogie.

Protection 

1 pad


Comments on Prince of Crimps Add Comment
Show which comments
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Oct 2, 2013

YES! I knew this would go... now all u gotta do it the lower, lying down start lol! Awesome name too!
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Oct 2, 2013

Actually, I was thinking of adding a start a few moves to the left, the moves would be really brutal.
By Andrew Gerald Thaller
Jan 2, 2016

Great job! I couldn't get off the ground, small crimps badfeet.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Mar 28, 2016

Glad to see people getting on it
By Hans Reuter
May 28, 2016

First move felt heinously terrible. Felt harder than V7 to me...any tricky beta for the fist move?
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Jun 1, 2016

I haven't been back to this boulder in 3 years and I dont remember much in the way of trickery. The first move is definitely the crux and I think the feet were fairly staggered (one much higher than the other). As I said, the grade was just my relative guess at the time.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Sep 7, 2016

Upgraded by popular demand, someone do this thing already hahaha
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Sep 8, 2016

NICE!

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