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Prince Nymph 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Season: any
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: boydpainting on Jan 27, 2010

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A wild, overhanging, wide fingers to bomber fists/hands crack. We elected to set a top rope (2-#3friends, 1-#7 Power Cam), after looking at the bottom half of the crack. It is an inch wide crack made up of two broken quartzite bands on either side of what would be a killer fist crack (this is the crux). The crack will take gear in the 0.5-1.0" range down low, I just wouldn't trust it to hold in a fall. There are two blocks wedged into the open book, above the crack(I trundled two more, that were on top of these two, but alas the two that remain didn't want to go.)Stem past the two chock-stones, on face holds and finish the hand-crack/ramp to the top.

I gave this a 5.11d-12a as that is the limit of my trad. on-sight ability,(took a couple go's on TR to figure out the moves). With traffic this line may go "ground up" as a lot of the broken quartz falls out when you shove your toes into it. Even then the bottom might be a little sketchy, since the crack is so shallow.


Upper tier, left side of crag.


TR on two #3 Friends, and a #7 Metolius.
The top can be reached by scrambling around the left or right side of the cliff, the right side is a little easier.

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