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Primus Peak

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Primus Peak Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 8,508'
Page Views: 1,858
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Bath on Oct 27, 2009
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A remote, glaciated peak at the north end of the Eldorado Icecap. The peak is composed of Skagit Gneiss and has some of the most spectacular views in Washington

Getting There 

Primus can be approached either from the south, via the Cascade River Road, or the north, via the N. Cascade Highway.

South Approch-Follow Eldorado Creek up to Rouch Creek and over onto the Icecap. From here 7 or 8 miles of glacier travel northward will take you to Lucky Pass just east of Primus. This approach is best in early season when the glaciers are less broken.

North Aprroach: Follow the Thunder Creek Trail 6 miles to McCallister camp and cross the Thunder Creek. Follow the ridge radiating down from Tricouni Peak (staying generally to the left of the arete) up 5000 or so feet to the Borrealis Glacier/Lake.

Climbing Season

For the North Cascades area.

Weather station 12.3 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Primus Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the N. Ridge of Primus

North Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Washington : Northwest Region : ... : Primus Peak
The North Ridge, while not technically difficult, is fairly serious as it remote and involves a wide variety of skills including glacier travel and route finding. On, what appears to have been the 2nd ascent, I climbed the ridge starting just left of the toe and simuled the route in 4-5 pitches. The rock is mostly solid and easy with a few short steep sections. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Primus Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice climbing out of the shrund on the descent.
BETA PHOTO: Ice climbing out of the shrund on the descent.

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