Primus Peak Rock Climbing
Primus from Borealis Glacier
A remote, glaciated peak at the north end of the Eldorado Icecap. The peak is composed of Skagit Gneiss and has some of the most spectacular views in Washington
Primus can be approached either from the south, via the Cascade River Road, or the north, via the N. Cascade Highway.
South Approch-Follow Eldorado Creek up to Rouch Creek and over onto the Icecap. From here 7 or 8 miles of glacier travel northward will take you to Lucky Pass just east of Primus. This approach is best in early season when the glaciers are less broken.
North Aprroach: Follow the Thunder Creek Trail 6 miles to McCallister camp and cross the Thunder Creek. Follow the ridge radiating down from Tricouni Peak (staying generally to the left of the arete) up 5000 or so feet to the Borrealis Glacier/Lake.
Climbing Season For the North Cascades area.
Weather station 12.3 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Primus Peak
North Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Washington
: Northwest Region
: ... : Primus Peak
The North Ridge, while not technically difficult, is fairly serious as it remote and involves a wide variety of skills including glacier travel and route finding. On, what appears to have been the 2nd ascent, I climbed the ridge starting just left of the toe and simuled the route in 4-5 pitches. The rock is mostly solid and easy with a few short steep sections. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington
BETA PHOTO: Ice climbing out of the shrund on the descent.