Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ajax T 
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T 
There Goes The Neighborhood T 
Torture Chamber S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 
Yellow Zonker T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,711
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jul 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Excellent in its brevity. Tim on Primer.

  • Seasonal Raptor Closure-lifted for 2016 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.

    Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.

    This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!


    On the boulder with the green face and dihedral 50 feet left of One Hand Clapping.


    Finger and hand size cams. Bolted anchors equipped for lower off.

    Comments on Primer Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Aerili
    From: Los Alamos, NM
    Oct 29, 2009

    Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).

    Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you', uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying??
    By caughtinside
    From: Oakland CA
    Nov 16, 2009

    That's the spirit!

    Fight grade creep!

    By SKI
    From: Portlandia, OR
    Sep 20, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    5.9, 5.9+ if you screw it up on the gear.
    By DJ Reyes
    From: Northern Nevada
    Aug 5, 2012

    Led this today mostly because it was in the shade. Nice route! I had no idea what the name or rating was and I can agree with the 5.9 rating. It is strenuous, but fairly short.
    By BruceB
    From: Reno, NV
    Sep 21, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. If it was longer I'd say 9+
    By Mitch Alexander
    Aug 12, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Fun, short, and stout. That left side is slick.

    Gear beta: I used a yellow and orange metolius and .75 - 3 C4.

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!