|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson, Bill Hotz, Jorge Urioste 1/10/09|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Carson on Sep 7, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Prime Rib||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2010
|Climbed this fine route today after bailing on an FA of the left facing flakes to this routes immediate right. Turned out to be a good decision because Prime Rib is outstanding and the climb we planned on doing kept looking worse as we continued up. The pitons on the third pitch looked OLD (ring pins, slight rust), looks like someone was here long ago.|
From: Las Vegas
Mar 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Those are actually just old pins that were recently placed on a new route. Being a new route, there is still some loose rock. We tried to remove as much as possible, but be wary if there is a party above you.|
By cassondra long
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Definitely 5.7, but not the best choice for a new leader due to less than obvious route-finding and loose rock. It should be better after it cleans up a bit. With the loop just crawling with spring break vacationers and people who showed up early for the Rendezvous, Disappearing Buttress was a great place to avoid the crowds. The only other people we saw out there were those whose headlamps we spied from afar as they made their way back from
the south face of Windy Peak.
By Jay Holland
From: Heath , Texas
Feb 25, 2013
|Interesting day. The road is a bit rough, use the exit just west of black velvet parking and follow it west along the highway, turn hard right and go to the second parking lot(small) You should be able to see the area easily from here. Head straight towards the area. Go up to the base of the rock and drop left around to the route. You will see cairns on the way as you get closer. About 1 hour approach through rough bushwacking. Very little trail. The start and end is not great climbing. The middle is great. Hard to define best belay stops, pro is not easy to find. Holds are all there. Great Top out! Walk off 25 minutes back to base. We did it in 4 pitches. 1st short scramble , then three long pitches with 70m rope.|
By Joe Vitti
May 29, 2013
|Well done Maurice and company, what an awesome first ascent team. I climbed this rt. awhile ago after Maurice recomended it and loved it, good climbing, exposure and cool summit and walk off; really great. Thanks for posting Andrew and hope to see you guys again soon.|
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Good, not great climbing. Fairly run out- although if you had a double set of small cams it would feel better- we didnt have anything smaller than fingers and I wished I did for most of the day. A set of rp's or other micronuts would also be nice in a few spots.
Rock was pretty good for the most part- nothing broke on us, although some spots on the route had that...'please don't break' feeling...
All in all, a nice day out. Definitely 5.7 for the 5.9 and up leader, though. Not a beginner route.
Mar 13, 2016
The remote location and long strenuous approach will keep the crowds away from this climb.
We had some difficulty identifying the start of the climb from the description, but were eventually able to find the spot that matched one of the pictures.
We roped up for the "scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge" so that my second would be protected.
First: Climbed most of a 70 meter rope length to a small stance. I might have been able to reach this point if I had started from the ground instead of the ledge.
Second: Climbed half a rope length to a small ledge.
Third: Climbed half a rope length to a ledge at the base of the headwall. Had a challenge finding good pro for anchor. Used the rusty fixed pin.
Fourth: Climbed the headwall to big ledge on top.
Fifth: Short pitch to the right. Stopped when it became a ledge, but could have climbed up one more short pitch to top.
Followed cairns around left and up to the descent.
The descent gully was marked with cairns, but the descent was not trivial. It took us a lot longer than the reported 25 minutes to get back to the base of the route.
Rock quality was not great. We had holds break off on every pitch, including the scramble to the starting ledge.
Two of the broken-off holds, one toaster-oven sized block and one that was a little smaller, could have been fatal to someone below, so it was a good thing they broke when the follower used them, not the leader.