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Prime Rib 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 28, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Prime rib goes up the slim buttress under the tree...


Prime Rib is the crack/dihedral system immediately left of Captain Fist on The Leftovers.

Climb the slab just right of the dead tree leaning on in (you can sling the tree for pro). Pull right into the dihedral, and climb it for about 50 feet. Exit the dihedral before it ends and swing around onto the face to the left (can get a #3 Camalot here). If the move is hard, you're probably too high. Climb cracks on the face to the belay ledge - the last 40 feet is a runout with no pro.

As of Feb. 2002, the rap anchors had been removed - descend over the top and around to the right - a crappy scramble that holds snow longer than the rest of Turkey.


A standard rack should suffice.

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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A good sustained 5.8. The runout up top is easy but airy. You can get two equalized cams (aliens) before casting off.

The slings are occasionally there, but not always. I've seen them twice in the past five years. If they are there; 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground or 2 50m will get you to a ledge below too much turkey. Don't count on them!
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 27, 2014

Don't be deterred by the runout at the top if you are a competant 5.8 leader. It's a low angle slab with plenty of positive edges, casual and not scary.

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