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Prime Rib of RURP 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger, 1978. FFA: Clay Mansfield, Geir Hundal, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,060
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jul 23, 2013

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A striking view of Prime Rib of RURP and Cream of ...


Prime Rib of RURP is an old Steiger/Ringle aid line from 1978, that, in all likelihood, hasn't been climbed much in the 35 years since it went up. Steiger's guide originally lists it as 5.10 A3+, with the aid section going on RURPs and a bolt. The possibility of freeing It was in the back of my mind for a while, then while replacing a bolt on Cream of Belay next door, Prime Rib looked like good, technical face climbing on great rock.

So with John Steiger's blessing, old bolts were upgraded (thanks to the ASCA) and new bolts were added to the aid section and it now goes free. Aside from replacing the original hardware, only 3 additional free climbing bolts were required. Also, while I was dangling and laboring around on the climb, a new variation (Tide Me Over) to the first pitch was spotted by Alex K, adding an awesome start to gain the striking arete.

P1: Tide Me Over. Rather than climb the somewhat loose original 5.8 start, launch up into the series of horizontals out on the face to the left. Fun pulls and traverses on jugs, bomber gear, and one move in the 10+ range midway through allows you to eventually gain a ledge beneath the arete. The arete climbing is moderate, has great position, and is fun as hell. This pitch is probably 3 stars by itself. 2 bolt belay with quicklinks and biners, 75 feet.

P2: The former aid section, and now the free climbing crux. The 4 bolts take you through very subtle, technical, and high quality climbing. A thank god chockstone jug marks the end of the difficulties, with a just a hint of Reef excitement from here to the anchor. 2 bolt belay with quicklinks and biners. 50 feet.

P3: A few committing moves out right gains the obvious horizontal ~10 feet up, then 2 more bolts lead to the top and a gear belay. It essentially ends on the ledge above the finishing boulder on Cream of Belay, and down from the topout of Rapture's 2nd pitch. 75 feet.

The best way down off Neptune, if you're not walking off, are the Jimmy Dean raps, which require a 70m rope (or 2 ropes).


On Neptune's upper west face, between Rapture of the Steep and Cream of Belay.


Singles, micro to to #3BD, stoppers, and draws.

Photos of Prime Rib of RURP Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: crux pitch
crux pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: crux pitch
crux pitch

Comments on Prime Rib of RURP Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 23, 2013

Nice going Clay! Setting aid routes free is awesome!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Congrats Clay on a terrific effort! This climb has a great new first pitch, super-technical climbing on the second (now free) pitch, and spicy reef-style climbing on the last pitch. I was psyched to be present for the free ascent!
By jbak
Jul 24, 2013

Nice work guys. Is the crux slabby ? Or steeper than that ?
By Clay Mansfield
Jul 24, 2013


My guess is most people would call this slab, given the angle, but I've climbed many things that felt more "slabby" to me. It's really good movement and you're climbing features the whole time.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2013

Congrats Clay!!! Way to put the work in!!
By jbak
Jul 26, 2013

Thanks, Clay. Very tempting. Good job !

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