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Primate Studies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Todd Eastman
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Gino @ the crux.

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  • Description 

    This route starts about 10 feet to the right of 'Living With the Apes,' and starts by climbing up a flaring crack. This is followed by tricky slab climbing for the remainder of the route. The technical crux is down low, but be careful of that last move! 'Living With the Apes' and this route both share anchors.

    Protection 

    9 quickdraws, and a 50m rope. There is a two bolt anchor at the top.


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    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 16, 2017
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

    Hard for the grade. I have always thought this climb was 5.11+, & I would give it a PG-13 rating. There is a 20 foot runout between the 6th & 7th bolt on juggy, moderate terrain. However, you must get your feet up & stretch up to reach the 7th bolt. Thankfully there is a nice, incut jug.

    Perhaps more concerning is location of the 3rd bolt, out right of the cracks you are climbing. The moves get hard here & involves a vertical, thin crack for the right hand & a diagonal crack for the left. The left crack begins with a hand jam but then turns into rounded sidepulls. A fall here (even though not far) would be a swing down & sideways, where you could easily hit the corner & arete below or the rope. With draws in place, you can hang a long sling or a long draw & medium draw off the 4th bolt. This will allow you to clip from lower & then clip again to the upper draw. The actual crux is past the 4th bolt, & it is well-protected.

    This climb has cool moves & interesting climbing. Primate Studies & Living With The Apes both share the last 2 bolts & anchor.

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