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Primal Urge 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on May 17, 2010

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This is a vastly sandbagged climb at Shelf! It is three climbs in one with three cruxes. Do a boulder problem start. There is a difficult mid-way sequence with possible ledge out and a final roof problem.


It is at the far North end of the Contest Wall (west side of Sand Gulch).


8-10 bolts.

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By Paul Lanz
Dec 19, 2012

FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988.
By damonachey
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This is a great route, but the 'hangers' are down-right scary. They almost look like hand cut sheet metal (not like other angle iron hangers in the area) bent 90 degrees with a hole drilled in them with no markings or ratings.

In addition, the third bolt at the end of a large runout that protects the crux moves will flex with a light bouncing from a static hang under my weight of only 140 lbs.

Nice route, but be careful.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Feb 28, 2014

Nice line..I remember the spooky clip above the of a little crimp!
By Bill Czajkowski
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

8 bolts with groundfall potential around bolt 3 and ledgefall potential in two places. The new guide says good pockets after the first ledge, and that was true, but they ran out pretty quickly making clip 4 pretty desperate and 5 a little less so, and one of those weird sheet metal hangers held my 190 lbs. for a couple of falls, but they are a little disconcerting.
By Jacob Tarazoff
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 15, 2015

Great route! I took the fall on the last clip on the middle headwall (5th clip?). Super clean and fun fall. The hangers seem good to me, 165 lbs. 5.12a.

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