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Routes in Dreadnaught
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Dreadnaught, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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East Face/Dreadnaught T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Primal Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Solid State T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Power T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,735 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Warren Teissier on Oct 22, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route follows the 1000 foot arete of the Dreadnought from Skunk Canyon all the way to its summit behind the Backporch. The views of the rocks on the North side of Skunk Canyon and the West face of the Backporch are hard to beat.
Take the Skunk Canyon approach. Once you reach the Dreadnought hike the steep gully between its East Face and Achean Pronouncement to where the rock becomes well-defined and less licheny (roughly 300 feet).
Look for a small, left-facing dihedral with a couple of bushes in it. This is the start of the route.
Climb up the dihedral, and protect in a crack at its bottom, make it past the first bush, and exit to the right of the dihedral or continue up a through above the dihedral. Either way, reach the arete, and set up your first belay.
From here, the route follows the arete (left) all the way to either of the East or West summits. The 5.5 rating is for the first pitch, and the arete traverse is considerably easier but mostly unprotected and sometimes licheny.
Along the way you will make it past a small tree partially blocking the arete and onto a good ledge where you can rest before tackling the final steeper section.
At the foot of the summit blocks, there is a large ledge. You can do an easy but exposed 40 foot scramble to either summit from here.
Descent: Scramble back down to the ledge below the sumit blocks and climb South down a hole between them. Scramble down West and South via an alleyway that will deposit you below the South side of the Dreadnought. Hike East to reach the Porch Alley trail.
Take the Skunk Canyon approach. Once you reach the Dreadnought hike the steep gully between its East Face and Achean Pronouncement to where the rock becomes well-defined and less licheny (roughly 300 feet).
Look for a small, left-facing dihedral with a couple of bushes in it. This is the start of the route.
Climb up the dihedral, and protect in a crack at its bottom, make it past the first bush, and exit to the right of the dihedral or continue up a through above the dihedral. Either way, reach the arete, and set up your first belay.
From here, the route follows the arete (left) all the way to either of the East or West summits. The 5.5 rating is for the first pitch, and the arete traverse is considerably easier but mostly unprotected and sometimes licheny.
Along the way you will make it past a small tree partially blocking the arete and onto a good ledge where you can rest before tackling the final steeper section.
At the foot of the summit blocks, there is a large ledge. You can do an easy but exposed 40 foot scramble to either summit from here.
Descent: Scramble back down to the ledge below the sumit blocks and climb South down a hole between them. Scramble down West and South via an alleyway that will deposit you below the South side of the Dreadnought. Hike East to reach the Porch Alley trail.
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