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Primal Rage 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Seth Tart
Season: Early Spring or Late Fall
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: S Tart on Jun 25, 2013

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Seth Tart cutting loose on the 1st crux of Primal ...


Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.

Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.


Far left of Zeus wall just before turning the corner to Catnip, there is a roof/arête feature 20' up with 2 obvious bolts.


6 bolts, anchors, and a couple TCU's for the start

Photos of Primal Rage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Loomis holding the first reach crux.  Photo b...
Greg Loomis holding the first reach crux. Photo b...

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By gloomis
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure.

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