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Primal Magic 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,796
Submitted By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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A beautiful day for a send

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


The old guide puts this route at 5.11b. When compared to the other 5.11b's on this wall Primal Magic feels a lot easier. The crux is around the 5th bolt and consists of one committing move to a jug which almost out of sight.


Its the first route to the right of the overhung 5.12 section. Its vertical and its on the light colored face.


7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos of Primal Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Shows Climber at Crux of Primal Magic
BETA PHOTO: Photo Shows Climber at Crux of Primal Magic
Rock Climbing Photo: Primal Magic on the Left line  The Crux after the ...
BETA PHOTO: Primal Magic on the Left line The Crux after the ...

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By Abandoned User
Jun 10, 2008

This route is much easier than its neighbor Juggernaut. Subjective ratings I guess.
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think the 11b rating is correct when compared to the Wasatch Range. But might agree that Juggernaut feels a bit harder... but they are quite different climbs.
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

this thing is fun. pocket pulling up to a big layback feature with the crux coming at the end of the feature. i felt like it was just as hard as suicide blonde but i havnt done juggernaut yet.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

the crux move on juggernaut is harder than any move on primal magic...however, pm has bigger initial moves and is slightly more sustained. interesting/misleading crux.

Chossy looking blocks of what looks like clay to the left of the lie-back and crux are bad foot holds! a few of them came off and hit my belayer from 40 ft. no bueno.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Another good climb on hardrock wall. I'd have to agree with a few of the comments, that the rating is questionable to it being an .11b, since both suicide blonde and juggernaut are both harder. What is true about this climb is that it's fun, and makes for a great warm up when you plan to work on the 5.12's to the left. I'm honestly not sure where, or even if there was a crux since there's a great stemming rest about 2/3 the way up, so you get to recover and tackle the last bit easily.
By anja
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

We found the grades on hard rock (primal magic-gas boost) to be a bit strange, with the routes to the right being harder than rated (treehugger-gas boost) and the climbs on the left being easier. I would re-rate them as:

primal magic*** - 10d
juggernaut** - 11a
punch the clock* - 10c
unknown left*** - 5.9
unknown right** - 5.9
treehugger* - 10b
vaporous apparition*** - 10a
gas boost** - 5.9

Or, if primal magic is 11a or 11b for the area, the others should be bumped up. Great climbs, but we started with vaporous apparition and didn't get the warmup we expected!
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 24, 2013

I climbed this sans flake (see here) and the difficulty was pretty much the same. There are a couple of pockets and sidepulls where the flake used to be.

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