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Primal Jam 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 23, 2001

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Dan in the roof, cleaning it after an aid ascent.

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  • Description 

    A huge double tiered roof that is exciting to just look at as you walk by. To lead it is another story....

    Locate this route along the trail from the Grocery Store Wall--you can't miss it. A downclimb is possible several hundred yards to the North via easy 5th class.

    Scramble up 10 feet to a ledge and begin the climb from here. The first roof is not too bad and takes some good pro. Pulling over this first lip is tricky, but a nice hands-free rest is found under the second roof. The exposure is nice for this second roof, which accepts decent crack pro (variable from 0.5 inch to hand size), but large pockets make the route sane. If you are placing a lot of pieces (especially for the first roof), Hanson notes that you can do the route in two pitches to avoid the extreme rope drag.

    This is an exciting route that requires concentration, commitment, and some "hard grit."


    Stoppers and good selection of cams from 0.5" to 3". A #7 hex and a #2.5 Friend will setup an anchor at the top.

    Photos of Primal Jam Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan cleaning the route on ascenders.
    Dan cleaning the route on ascenders.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben aiding up the lower overhang of Primal Jam.
    Ben aiding up the lower overhang of Primal Jam.

    Comments on Primal Jam Add Comment
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    By Mike Lane
    From: Centennial, CO
    Nov 16, 2003

    On either side of this crack are 2 of the best remainig lines left at CWC. Richard Wright and I TR'd the roof line to the right a long time ago. Super cool 11A face to the 10' roof with monster jugs all the way, finishes with 10A edges on upper face. The green route to the left will be 45' of overhanging crank. I submitted a proposal to the staff for a new route permit, awaiting the bureaucracy.

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