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Primal Dream  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Wolkoff 1990
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Jpusch on Mar 23, 2016

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First pitch only*. The route starts with thin moves to take you past the first couple bolts, followed by fun climbing on some of the biggest jugs I've seen at the fortress. At the roof, place a piece of gear and make a interesting move to get into the right facing corner. Follow this corner a short ways, clip another bolt, and make a airy step right to deke around another roof. The anchor is another 15 feet of easy climbing up.


The line of bolts following the biggest holds on that section of the wall. 20 feet to the right of the three smaller Douglas Firs.


9 bolts, plus a couple pieces of gear needed for the corner/roof section. Route is 31m so tie rope ends!

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By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Why do just the first pitch? The whole 200' route is great!

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