|Original:||YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI3-4 Steep Snow [details]|
|FA:||Beckey, Schwabaland, Grantson 1945|
|Submitted By:||ChrisZ on Aug 26, 2008|
|Comments on Price Glacier Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dave Schultz
From: Saratoga Springs, New York
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 Steep Snow
Did this early Aug 2014 and we did a rock variation on climber's left to get past the final, impassible shrund. It was tricky/funky/fun ice onto a super steep (65+ degree) snow slope (probably 50m to an anchor near the rock) then two pitches of rock (probably 70m total) to reach the final snowfield along the crystal glacier.
We had four 24" pickets and one 36" picket - use all five frequently during long section of simul-climbing and especially on the last steep snow pitch (above) to make an anchor.
We had six screws and also used all during long section of simul-climbing.
We had a good sized rock rack from climbing nooksack tower the previous two days, and was glad to have it for the rock bypass of the final shrund.
Our route went straight up the gut of the glacier, we eye-balled what looked like a continuous line and we made it work. We were also able to watch the glacier for the previous two days while on Nooksack tower and saw little to no ice fall or active movement and felt safe going through the middle of it. It certainly could have not worked out well, but felt it was an appropriate gamble.
Overall - fantastic route, well worth doing. Much more enjoyable and engaging than Liberty Ridge, IMO.