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Priapos 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mabe, Juth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Sep 9, 2004

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Beginning the crux.

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Description 

Priapos, son of Aphrodite, is a variation that goes straight up the face after Aphrodite's 4th clip. Steep edging and a balancy crux put you to a huge juggy horn. Continue past some easier climbing to the anchors. Lower 100' back to the ledge.

A couple of stars for the good movement and clean rock. Though a bit contrived, I admit, so put your blinders on.

Protection 

10 bolts to two bolt lowering anchor.


Photos of Priapos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren, Just before the crux.
Darren, Just before the crux.

Comments on Priapos Add Comment
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 14, 2007

I thought this was harder than Aphrodite and will have to go back and try to finish it. (Apparently I bailed at the crux in dimming light.) I can't really rate it since I didn't finish it, but I barely trad harder than 11a.
By Keith Ainsworth
Aug 18, 2007

I thought this line was way better than the other two, a Clear Creek Classic, worth every bit of 10d.
By James R. Arnold
Sep 3, 2007

This is a pretty good route, but it is a little unclear where it goes. Climbing straight between the bolts is probably what was intended but makes the climbing much harder. At one point I traversed left to better holds and back right to make the clip below the first big face hold. I contemplated going straight up but the last bolt would have been several feet below me and chickened out. My partner Joe climbed a little more left with better holds and had a much easier time of it.
By Bruce Pech
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crux between the 8th and 9th bolts is a bit spicy: insecure moves with the 8th bolt at your feet before you can clip the 9th bolt and yard on the big jug. But fun too.

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