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Fly Swatter S 
Fly Trap S 
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Lucky Strikes Again S 
New Fanatic S 
Pri-Moe T,S 
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Pri-Moe and Lucky Strikes Again, Coney Island.

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  • Description 

    This route lies on the far right-side (east-face) of Coney Island.Locate three bolts up a steep, blocky face. Climb past the bolts tending left into a chimney/flared slot. Clip a bolt and make a long reach into a finger crack. Climb up steep rock on good jams to a good rest. Crank up past the last bolt making a dicey move to the anchor.


    Five bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Pri-Moe Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A good rest for the final moves.
    A good rest for the final moves.

    Comments on Pri-Moe Add Comment
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    By Kent Lugbill
    Nov 13, 2002

    Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block.
    By Chris Archer
    Jun 23, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts?
    By Andy Moore
    Jul 2, 2004

    Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.
    By kyle lefkoff
    Jun 13, 2005
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux.
    By Nick Fury
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 26, 2009

    That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute.
    By Dougald MacDonald
    Mar 24, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot.

    May 2015 addition: I've done this twice now, and I think it's nearly a 3-star route. Yes, it has some suspect rock entering the crux (don't place gear in the loose, thin crack/pillar thing below the can get a bomber #3 Camalot in the slot under the bulge just below this). Most of the route is reasonably clean, and the climbing is varied and fun.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 16, 2013

    It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly.

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