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Preying Mantis 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Pitts, Karl Lail
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: rock_fencer on Jan 4, 2016  with updates from RODNEY LANIER and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

P1: Climb an unprotected slab just right of a pine tree aiming for a thin vegetated crack that leads to the dihedral. Climb up the dihedral into a minin roof pulling left into the finger crack and arete. Climb that to a tree below a bolt. 100ft

p2: climb up to the bolt and up the face into the wide flake. Climb under the wide flake with good gear up to where it converges with the gully, through big crack, fun moves on big holds will get you up over the roof to the same pine tree.

Climbing up on the face to the right after the bolt is beeline. Same start. This was put up by Rodney Lanier.

I dont really care who put up which route first. the point is to share the description of these routes which previous to the guide being out were lost in the grass and bushes of the occasional adventuring climber. They are both about the same quality and difficulty.


Rap: 1 70m rope will get you down via the gully or come up a bit shy of conception anchor - but can be attained with some shenaniganry - (tie knots in the end please if going to this anchor!!!)

Location 

located 20 feet uphill of conception. look for a short right facing dihedral and finger crack about 80 ft up.

Protection 

standard rack...if you want to tackle the wide crack above id recommend double #3, a 4,5 and maybe a six or second five


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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 4, 2016

dont have guidebook with FA info so if someone PMs me i'll update. This is a really good route that needs some more traffic and will clean up well.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 18, 2016

you really ought to buy a guidebook.... ;)
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 19, 2016

i actually have it turns out...just never realized it
By matt swaim
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
Feb 9, 2017

take some webbing for the tree anchor at the top of p2. the old one was laying in a melted pile and i didnt have any to replace, which was not so bright.
By JohnnyRemein
From: Asheville
Mar 11, 2017

I just climbed this today and cleaned up the old melted tat on the tree ledge. I also inspected both trees and would NOT recommend anyone use them to rappel. When jerking the trees around to test their integrity, all of the surrounding dirt moved with them. It seems this could be a good candidate for a rappel anchor, I'll inquire with the CCC about that. There is a tree to climbers left that was bomber, but it's a little tricky getting to it. Great route!

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