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John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 
Lawbreaker S 
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Polish Direct T 
Pretty New Anchor T 
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Wanted Man T 
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 

Pretty New Anchor 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 198
Submitted By: old5ten on May 28, 2014  with updates from Mark Robinson

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of 'Pretty New Anchor'

Description 

This route starts on the slab immediately right and below the start of Digi. Follow 2 bolts (1st crux around 2nd bolt, height dependent) to a short groove (gear) and a couple more bolts above. Continue up on easier ground, crossing 'Your Mother was a Hamster' - finish on the slab above with the three right hand bolts (2nd crux). Fun route with a bit of variety. It's easy to get this mixed up with 'Your Mother was a Hamster' on top. WATCH rope ends on lower/rap!

Location 

The route is located just right of 'Digi' and left of 'Your Mother was a Hamster,' however it crosses Hamster at the fifth (shared) bolt and finishes via harder face moves on the right (vs. the easier Digi/Hamster finish on the left).
Tight rap with one 70m rope.

Protection 

8 bolts (including the 5th bolt which is from 'Your Mother was a Hamster') and small gear up to 1/2"
70m rope


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By Zack Brown
Oct 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I found the gear placement to be really tricky between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Small off set nuts or cams maybe the best option?
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Oct 27, 2014

(update 12/27/14) just climbed this again a few days ago and placed (imho) two pretty solid pieces between the 2nd and 3rd bolt: 1st piece was a blue metolius offset in the finger pocket, 2nd piece was a green/yellow alien offset in the corner. someone else suggested a PG-13 rating and that may be appropriate for the section between the 4th and 5th bolt, easy climbing but not a whole lot of pro.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

offset cams were very helpful.

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