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Pretty Hate Machine 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Landin
Page Views: 9,237
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Bad beta!


Super-mega-ultra-classic! It is possibly the best sport route in the universe.

This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.

This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.

The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.

Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.

This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.

If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.


9 bolts with fixed chains.

Photos of Pretty Hate Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: What a cool line through this roofy section!!  Bur...
What a cool line through this roofy section!! Bur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting just below the PHM crux.
Resting just below the PHM crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the good rest below the crux.
Near the good rest below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting up after the burly opening section.
Resting up after the burly opening section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty Hate Machine.
Pretty Hate Machine.

Comments on Pretty Hate Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By richard magill
Sep 16, 2002

For what it's worth, Dave Pegg's new "Western Sloper" guide also calls this route 12c.
By tim naylor
Sep 11, 2007

The second bolt looked pretty rusty to me, at least in limestone.
By Marc H
From: Denver
Nov 27, 2007

I've never even been to Rifle, and I feel like I climbed the route by reading the description. No need to go now I guess.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 17, 2008

Marc, that's one of the better excuses I've heard from people that are too scared to go to Rifle and get their ass kicked. Good one!
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 14, 2013

This March, PHM was rebolted (all protection bolts) with glue-in Wave Bolts, supported by the ASCA . Aluminum carabiner pulled and replaced with steel and a steel biner with chain added at first bolt. All of the quicklinks were replaced with new stainless quicklinks.

Here's the story and here's some pics, before and after. Enjoy.

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