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Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inferno Fog S 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging Direct T,TR 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Dark T 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Putter T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pretty Girls with Long Knives 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 2,869
Submitted By: Squatting Bear on Jul 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The red gyps.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If climbed in one pitch to the top of the formation, this route is probably one of the longest in Vedauwoo/Blair. It has varied climbing, great exposure for parts of the climb, absolutely all-around fun. It is highly recommended.

Location 

This is on the northwest face of Blair III. It is left of Intimidation.

Protection 

There's a bolt that protects the crux, which appears where the crack shuts down into a crackless seam.

Otherwise, this route takes gear. There are no chains nor hangers at the top, nor midway up the route where a potential first anchor/toprope anchor could be. So plan accordingly. Natural anchor on top takes any combo of #0.75, 1, 2, and 3 Cams PLUS a lot of cord/webbing to reach the lip of the formation.


Photos of Pretty Girls with Long Knives Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michal climbing Pretty Girls with Long Knives.
Michal climbing Pretty Girls with Long Knives.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty good rest stance on the lower half.
Pretty good rest stance on the lower half.
Rock Climbing Photo: Michal in the hard bits after the crux.
Michal in the hard bits after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The bear, dancing with a very pretty girl.
The bear, dancing with a very pretty girl.
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom half, and harder part of the route.  Ba...
The bottom half, and harder part of the route. Ba...

Comments on Pretty Girls with Long Knives Add Comment
Show which comments
By djkyote
Aug 16, 2011

FA: Paul Piana.
By honeyjacket
Jul 3, 2015

One of the best climbs in Vedauwoo. Someone put a rap station 2/3 of the way up at an obvious ledge. Not sure about the very top.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2017

Exceptional route on excellent rock (at least to the rap anchor 2/3 of the way up). The bottom park is spooky, insecure, and difficult to protect. Bring some small-med stoppers and please don't deck! Nothing larger than a #1 Camalot needed to get to the bolted anchors, although a #2 can be useful up high.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 6, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Absolutely amazing line! There is a great 000 and Metolius 0.75 size cam that for great on the second piece that keeps you off the deck. True sending crux is after the crux by the bolt. Sustained climbing and every bit of 12b and then some. Get on it!

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