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Unsorted Routes:

Pretty Boy Floyd 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 10/05
Page Views: 3,868
Submitted By: MJM on Dec 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
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Jamming past bolt 3 on Pretty Boy Floyd.


Scramble up the low angle slab to begin.

Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance. Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet. Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.


At The Bank Rob, this is the second to last route on the right.

Protection & Vitals 

9 clips to anchors.

Photos of Pretty Boy Floyd Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First bolt stance on Pretty Boy Floyd.
First bolt stance on Pretty Boy Floyd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty Boy Floyd, tremendous route, all the best b...
BETA PHOTO: Pretty Boy Floyd, tremendous route, all the best b...
Rock Climbing Photo: John, always in good style, leading PBF.
John, always in good style, leading PBF.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the finish of Pretty Boy Floyd.
At the finish of Pretty Boy Floyd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua leading Pretty Boy Floyd.
Joshua leading Pretty Boy Floyd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steph climbing PBF.
Steph climbing PBF.

Comments on Pretty Boy Floyd Add Comment
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By slim
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good beginner route with a lot of options available.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 15, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

The placement of bolts on this one is a bit curious.

The bolts are a couple of feet to the left of the crack, which makes them harder to clip, unlike Crinoid Corner where they are much closer to the crack you are climbing.

The crux is the roof at the fifth bolt, which starts from a pretty large ledge, and the bolt easily clipped from the ledge (I'm 5'11). The bolt is too low above the roof - I climbed to where my waist was even with the bolt and hung on the rope...with rope stretch my feet touched the ledge. So, a fall from the above the bolt or at the awkward clip at the sixth bolt could be an ankle breaker.

Also, the anchors are placed a foot above a good stance for your feet for setting up the rappel or top rope. An extra foot of mediocre climbing is not worth a hanging stance....

I rate this PG-13 because of the fifth bolt and would not recommend this as a beginning leader route.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Feb 7, 2013

Just curious, why would you bolt this crack when it looks like you could place gear in it the entire way?
By Robert Raithel
From: Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013

Seems to me that this is more of a common practice in sport climbing oriented climbing destinations. A lot of people aren't bringing trad racks to these crags just to climb a low-mid quality crack. I guess whoever bolted it just figured that it would be better to make this climb more accessible rather than leaving it alone. Probably would never see any action if it weren't for the bolts.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Nov 4, 2013

Wouldn't necessarily agree with the PG-13. Perhaps if you're an upcoming leader trying to build some confidence, yes, they might be a little spacy towards the top, but all have great stances to clip. And I do agree that the crux is the roof at the 5th bolt, it's a bit sneaky but there. Have fun! :)
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Sep 22, 2014

If you compare this to other 5.7s and 5.8s at The Bank this is harder and surely a harder lead for the newer leader.

A bolted crack is a strange thing to me. Although I understand the rationale aforementioned, it would certainly not be accepted practice in sport climbing venues in the east (e.g., Rumney). My Colorado native friend who brought us to Shelf said he saw a young woman lead this crack on all passive gear with style. This was my first visit to Shelf and I am surprised at how many crack lines I saw bolted.
By Wingman
Oct 25, 2014

Perhaps we can get someone to put some chains hanging down from the anchor bolts. I'm 5'4" (and getting shorter!). It's a real struggle to reach and clean the anchors for rappel. I would be more than willing to put up the $$ for the material. Perhaps Santa will grant me my wish. :-}
By Sherpa Steve
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 8, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

5.7? That's ridiculous. At LEAST 5.8+ or even a 5.9- because of the sustained crack near the top.

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